Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Stuff to Read and Look At

As I mentioned, I spend lots of time (probably way too much) reading articles about multi-pitch climbing, and while I haven’t lately, I used to sit around playing with a lenght of rope or cord and practicing knots and hitches.  A few times this fall I went to Devil’s Chair, fixed a rope, and used my grigri and some cord to ascend and descend.  It was sort of fun, sort of muddy.  But I learned some stuff (namely that when ascending, the grigri has to be below whatever else you are using (i.e. prussik, tibloc, etc.).  So, in the interest of expanding our collective knowledge base, as well making things safer for ourselves, here’s some stuff I’ve read in the last few months/years:

various awesome info from petzl-pick your discpline (sport, aid etc. then scroll down and download the techniques pdf) so much good stuff to know in here
this book (read this, Dan and I have the older edition, but they’re all good)
And obviously, the tech tips from Climbing are super helpful, though they can be pretty random
That’s probably enough for now, but there’s so much info out there that can make us climb smarter, faster, and safer.  There was also some article recently on how being positive can be super helpful in hard situations.  For instance, if someone is struggling or scared on a climb (even it’s easy), it’s way better to be encouraging than be like “you sissy, suck it up and climb!”  And so much confidence can be derived from the fact that your belayer/spotter is being super attentive and you know you can go for it risk free.  (Note: this does not always apply in bouldering when talking smack is often necessary).  It all takes practice, but it will be worth it when we’re flying up the Bachar-Yerian and get down in time for lunch.  And this might have come off as me being like, “Hey guys, I’m a whiner, belay me better!”  But I really am just trying to say that we can up the ante with some helpful practices.  So you guys go get strong, and I’ll get a little strong but be ready to belay and jug behind you.
Another place to read really cool stuff is the Black Diamond Journal.  They post awesome trip reports by badasses like my main man, Alex Honnold.  Check it:
He's also got some great desert climbing videos on there which you've maybe seen already
One more report: some almost-average-joes doing the link-up.  That's inspiration.
So my point is, let's climb hard, safe, and smart.  And fast.  Also, I love to read about crazy mountains in California and I love Honnold.  Here's a picture of him after crushing Half Dome, heading for the Nose.  
 I've got those shoes.  Now I just need to eat more bananas and I'll be that strong...


  1. Be currrful...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banana_equivalent_dose

  2. uh oh. plus, it seems honnold can be quite a jerk: